In the vast world of fashion design, outerwear gets the glory, but underwear forms the silent architecture of a wardrobe. However, for aspiring designers and DIY enthusiasts, one significant hurdle remains constant: the lack of accessible, academic-grade resources for drafting intimate apparel patterns. Unlike a standard T-shirt or a pair of trousers, underwear requires an intricate understanding of negative ease, elastic tension, curve manipulation, and delicate fabric behavior.
Do not cut your expensive French lace yet. Shin advocates for a "Calico toile" for underwear. However, calico has 0% stretch. Instead, use a cheap cotton spandex jersey (90% cotton, 10% spandex) with a similar stretch factor to your final fabric. Cut the pieces without seam allowance first, then add a 1cm allowance manually. patternmaking for underwear design kristina shin pdf
One of Shin’s hidden formulas involves the "Elastic Reduction Factor" (ERF). For a panty waistband, if your pattern piece measures 30cm, your elastic should measure 27cm (10% reduction). She provides a chart for different elastic widths. Ignore this at your peril—it causes wrinkling. In the vast world of fashion design, outerwear